From top to tail

A bunny's digestion is probably the key to good health - starting from the mouth, concerning what goes in and, most importantly for the rabbit devotee, what comes out!

The Mouth

Rabbit's teeth grow continuously throughout a bunny's life. Regular checks of incisors can be done by the owner to ensure that they do not become overgrown. Molars, being hidden within the mouth, need to be checked by the vet. But problems can be detected by the owner should the rabbit begin to dribble, appear to have difficulty eating or reject hard foodstuffs. Also runny eyes can be associated with dental problems.

	Inside a bunny's mouth.
	These incisors are properly aligned and an appropriate length. In all probability the molars will be correct too. The upper incisors are over the lower incisors, allowing proper wear to maintain the teeth at the correct length. The incisors have a razor sharp edge for cutting through vegetation.
	The flat edge on these incisors indicates that upper and lower sets are now meeting tooth to tooth. This is probably the beginning of some malocclusion problems for the rabbit. It is likely that within 6 months the lower teeth may begin to grow over the upper ones. Then both upper and lower teeth would begin to grow longer and longer. Regular monitoring of the situation is now needed and possibly extraction of the incisors will be needed. Problems like this may also be an indicator of future molar problems which would entail a vet looking into the mouth to see what is happening with the back teeth. That is not something the owner can do.
	These upper incisors have a slight twist on them and are wearing unevenly. The tiny peg teeth behind the upper incisors are appearing also to be twisted and starting to grow at an unusual angle. These teeth will need to be checked regularly by the owner. Bunny could well benefit from a non-emergency check up by a vet in case there are also unseen molar issues.

	These incisors are on the point of becoming an issue. A visit to the vet will be needed shortly.
	These incisors are now causing a problem for the rabbit when it is eating. The upper incisors are starting to curve into the mouth, leaving the lower ones to grow away like tusks beyond the jaw. Since they are not aligned properly they are not wearing correctly. Teeth can grow at a rate of 2mm per week. Very soon the rabbit will be in serious trouble and pain. The rabbit needs to see the vet as soon as possible. Probably there are molar issues as well. These cheek teeth cannot be seen by an owner and will need professional attention.


	In the hands of a competent rabbit-savvy vet the removal of the incisors is a very good option for the bunny. It is recommended that X-rays are taken before surgery (even though this will increase expense) so that the vet can see exactly what is going on inside the jaw. It is essential to know how the roots of the teeth lie and what is going on there. After surgery bunny may need some syringe feeding for a few days. Sometimes they return home and are straight into their food bowl as though nothing has happened. Pain medication is ESSENTIAL. The molars remain in place so bunny can continue to grind up its food as before. The incisors are used for slicing through food. If they are removed, the owner needs to slice or grate vegetables for the rest of the rabbit's life. Although it seems a drastic option, bunny will cope perfectly well and it is a better option than the alternative...

For X-rays of a skull with healthy teeth and with problems, see:

X-Ray of the rabbit skull
http://www.medirabbit.com/Radiography/X_ray/Radio_skull.pdf

*X-Ray of the rabbit skull with severe dental problems - indicating how important it is to check bunny's teeth regularly.

http://www.medirabbit.com/Radiography/X_ray/Radio_skull4.pdf

X-Ray of a rabbit suffering from dental malocclusion,
before and after treatment
http://www.medirabbit.com/Radiography/X_ray/Radio_skull3.pdf

X-Ray of a rabbit suffering from advanced dental disease
http://www.medirabbit.com/Radiography/X_ray/Radio_skull2.pdf

Abscesses

Abscesses can be a problem with rabbits since they often develop to become a permanent issue for the rabbit, especially if they are associated with bones. An abscess under the chin is quite a common problem and they will develop almost overnight becoming greater in size than a large marble. Rabbit pus is quite difficult to deal with because it is very thick and tends not to drain easily. The treatment which we prefer for dealing with these is an injectible penicillin combined with precautionary pain relief. Some vets are wary about using this as it is well known that penicillin, given orally, can have a devastating effect upon the gut flora and can kill the animal. However injected it is well tolerated and rabbits can be safely on it for long periods to maintain and control a situation. Abscesses can be quite alarming for the owner to discover, but surprisingly often the bunny is totally unconcerned about it! Lancing the abscess is an unpleasant process as the pus is as thick as toothpaste and the consistency of cream cheese. An abscess which is within the soft tissue generally can be dealt with relatively easily - sometimes by surgery with the removal of the capsule in a similar way to a tumour. Abscesses which have become associated with bone, however, are another matter altogether and pose far more complex problems.

This rabbit had an abscess come up under the chin. It was allowed to develop for a number of days before being ready to burst and then clean out. A course of antibiotics and pain killers was used.

Head Tilt

If your bunny suddenly starts to show signs of losing balance, rolling uncontrollably and / or having its head twisted to one side it may be suffering from Head Tilt. There are many different causes of this problem, some of them simple to cope with, others more complex. The bunny needs URGENT attention from a vet who understands this condition. It is well known that the bunnies who have speedy medical help from a rabbit savvy vet have the best chances of pulling through.

Head Tilt is a very dramatic and (for the owner) distressing condition. But with careful nursing care many bunnies do pull through and are able to lead a normal life. Unfortunately there are still some vets who do not fully understand the condition and so a hasty recommendation to put the rabbit to sleep can be the only solution offered.

The site www.acadiabuns.co.uk has a page about a Netherland Dwarf who suffered from this condition. The story of PQ has resulted in a number of rabbit owners looking for different veterinary advice and have saved their rabbits from an unnecessary early death.

What goes in must come out: ...POOP!

Rabbits originally come from Spain and Portugal where the vegetation is often sparse and of poor quality, so their digestive systems have adapted to cope with this nutritionally poor diet. The rabbits basically eat everything twice. This is called Caecotrophy or Copraphagy.

Rabbits produce two types of pellets. Caecotrophs or caecals are the soft pellets. They are a valuable source of nutrition and are designed to be re-eaten by the rabbit. Then there are the familiar hard, round, fibrous pellets. It is perfectly normal for the rabbit to be seen with its head down between it's back legs and eating the caecotrophs directly from its anus.

Fibrous hard, round droppings. Admired and valued by bunny owners - the rabbit's gut is working well!

Caecotrophs: soft and often rather smelly droppings are produced several hours after eating. These should be eaten direct from the anus as they are produced, since they are nutritionally rich. Sometimes left lying around the cage if the rabbit's food is plentiful.

Sometimes the caecotrophs become wet and squidgy and are not eaten. Often caused by too many vegetables. This is not to be confused with diarrhoea.

If these remain around the rabbit's rear they can cause flies to be attracted...

The 'string of pearls' droppings are a warning sign of possible future gut problems. There is excess fur in the gut, probably due to it being swallowed during grooming. Giving the rabbit a good combing through, and plenty of hay will help.

If the rabbit does not eat all the caecotrophs that it produces these will collect around the tail area in a large sticky mass, often with the hard pellets stuck into it.


This rabbit's gut is rather sensitive to too many greens. After a while you learn how many vegetables your bunny can eat without getting a problem like this! Often simply reducing the quantity or not feeding a certain type can solve the problem.

The rabbit will need urgent help in removing this mass as it is an invitation to flies. Sometimes the caecal mass will come away from the dry fur with a comb, sometimes the best option is to wash and then thoroughly dry the rabbit. Care is needed as the skin in this area is very delicate and can easily tear if you just pull the faeces away.

To ensure that your bunny does not suffer with this problem a proper high fibre diet is essential.

NO POOP!

This is a most serious problem and the rabbit must be taken to the vet as an emergency. In some circumstances there may be a physical blockage, but often there is some disturbance within the gut that is causing it not to function correctly. The rabbit has a complex and unique digestive system which can get out of balance and the results can be life-threatening.

Watch out for the rabbit being off its food and, especially, no droppings in the litter tray or toilet corner.

Bunny may be hunched up in a corner, or lying around uncomfortably shifting position, grinding its teeth quite audibly.

Sometimes the stomach area becomes bloated and bunny feels blown up like a balloon with gas.

Watch out especially if the rabbit is moulting since excess fur in the digestive system can cause problems.

Mucus may be seen coming from the rabbit's anus or found in the cage.

Clear mucus oozing from the rabbit or found in the cage must not be ignored.

Tomorrow may well be too late for the vet's appointment. So tell the receptionist it is an emergency and get it treated as such.

There is much invaluable information on www.Medirabbit.com relating to digestive problems.

This is a well known article relating to stasis, being adapted from "GI Stasis: The Silent Killer" by Dana Krempels

It is possible that a blockage may occur within the gut that can slow down the normal digestive process, causing much discomfort to the bunny and, occasionally, death. Some years ago there was an alert from one of the UK's leading rabbit vets relating to whole seeds from the locust beans that were regularly included in rabbit mix.

Sometimes the dark brown seeds from the crushed pods were not removed from the feed and had caused intestinal blockages which had required emergency surgery. Now most (but not all) feed companies completely pulverise and reconstitute the locust beans into lozenge shapes to avoid potential problems.

Warm weather is the time for Fly Strike - if your rabbit has a dirty bottom it will be a prime target for flies and maggots. Remove the faeces with a tissue. If the rabbit's bottom needs to be washed off use warm water, ensuring that the fur is completely dry and never use a human shampoo. Inappropriate diet which leads to overweight, fat rabbits is a contributory factor. Check the rabbit once or twice a day. Maggots hatch and will eat into the rabbit's flesh within 12 hours of being laid. Rearguard is an excellent product that can be applied to the rear end and will save a rabbit misery as it prevents eggs from hatching out.

Do not bath rabbits - they do not need it. Wet rabbit fur is a nightmare to dry properly.

After the rabbit has been at the new home for approximately a week it is advisable to take it to the vet for vaccinations against Myxomatosis and V.H.D. Both of these illnesses are fatal and can be avoided by vaccination.

Vaccines contain harmless forms of viruses and infections. In response to a vaccination the rabbit's immune system stimulates the formation of antibodies and therefore immunity. This prevents similar forms of the virus causing the disease we wish to prevent our bunnies from catching. It is as though the rabbit's immune system has been taught in advance how to defend against the illness. Sometimes this can cause the newly vaccinated bunny to become lethargic for around 24 hours - should this continue for 48 hours, then a quick consultation with the vet would be appropriate. Because of the severity of these two illnesses immunity needs to be maintained at a high level - hence the recommendation of repeated annual (or more frequent) boosters.

Viral Haemorrhagic Disease is a deadly disease that rabbits over 6 weeks can catch. Most of those that become ill will die, whether they are wild rabbits or pets. The disease was first seen in this country in 1992, and since then it has been reported in all areas of the UK. The disease is a real threat to all bunnies because the virus is persistent and survives for a long time in the environment. It can be spread by birds and insects, but also by people on their clothing and footwear. Consequently even a house rabbit can be at risk. There is no effective treatment and so the best way to protect your pet is by annual vaccination which maintains immunity. The acute form of the illness will attack the liver and cause severe internal bleeding which kills the animal. Most infected animals die very suddenly and often without warning. Although the virus is within the wild population, sick animals are not seen because of the speed with which it takes effect.

Baby rabbits receive initial immunity from their mothers and this will last for approximately 6 weeks, leaving them resistant to the disease. At 10 weeks the youngster can have the first injection which will need to be followed by an annual booster. In high risk circumstances a vet may recommend that the initial vaccination may consist of two doses, with the first being given earlier than 6 weeks.

This disease has been seen by many people in wild rabbits with the tell-tale swellings around the eyes and face. Unlike with VHD, rabbits can be ill for some time before dying. The virus is spread by blood-sucking insects like mosquitoes and fleas. When bitten the animal has a small amount of the virus enter its body. This multiplies in the skin of the face, anus and ears which accounts for the large swellings that occur. These swellings cause problems for the bunny making it difficult for it to drink, see and eat. Death will usually occur within12 days although a small percentage, with expert medical help, can survive. These are the minority and are generally left with permanent scarring. Prevention of the disease is totally dependent upon insect control and vaccination. Annual boosters are required although in some circumstances these may be recommended to be taken more frequently.

Rabbits can be vaccinated from 6 weeks of age and this will then maintain immunity.The injections will need to be repeated annually or sometimes more often if there is an outbreak- but the vet will advise.

Rabbits can get mites and be affected by fleas should there be cats or dogs in the area. Mites are often discovered when there is a balding patch with flaky skin around the shoulder and spine area. This can easily be treated. DO NOT USE THE GENERAL PREPARATIONS WHICH ARE AVAILABLE FOR CATS AND DOGS SINCE SOME OF THESE CAN PROVE FATAL FOR BUNNIES - GET ADVISE FIRST.

In warmer weather and through into the autumn, rabbits will moult. This fur needs to be removed as it can cause a blockage in the rabbit's gut. We prefer owners to use damp hands run over the coat or possibly a small comb. We have found that the soft brushes available cause static in the fur which can then get matted. Sometimes the fur will come away in handfuls!

Rabbit's nails need cutting. We show new owners how to do this, and recommend clippers. We are happy to help out should this be needed. A rabbit has 5 nails on front feet and 4 on the rear.

Sometimes a claw can break or be pulled out. Use a tissue and apply pressure. They bleed profusely.

There is no need for any rabbit to have to experience this type of neglect.

It makes walking and standing painful and has gone on for months, while the rabbit has suffered in silence.

A few minutes with the clippers is all that it takes.

These are the style of clippers that we prefer to use. There is less chance of a nail being damaged with these.

No matter how careful you are, if you cut bunny's nails sometimes there is an accident and the nail is cut too short. Rabbit's nails bleed profusely, with the blood sometimes spurting or pulsing out. Quickly stop the blood flow, by applying pressure and it generally heals readily. There is a blood vessel that runs the length of each nail. White nails are easiest to cut as you can see the red blood vessel within. Dark nails are consequently much harder. If the nails are left to get long they cause much discomfort and potentially could break or snap off and blood will be flicked all around the cage by the rabbit. Do check for any sign of infection.

	A bunny's feet need attention as do their nails. It is possible that you will find there are wads of fur attached to the furry pads of the hind feet. This is old fur that needs carefully removing. It often looks as thought the rabbit has got particularly fluffy feet, with tufts sticking out sideways.
	This rabbit had a number of tufts and knots on the soles of his feet. They must have made walking incredibly uncomfortable. You can feel the knots like hard lumps and with gentle combing they can teased away from the fur.
	The foot on the right has been combed through and the contrast with left is most noticeable.
	This is the fur which was removed from bunny's feet! Comfort at last!

A potential danger from show rings.

Check your rabbit's leg.

Rabbits which have come from a show breeder may carry a metal ring around one of the back legs. This is an identification ring for show purposes and will have been slipped onto the rabbit's leg as a youngster and will be kept in place as the hock joint grows to adult size.

Under normal circumstances this ring will remain loose and will cause no problem.

However this ring can become over-tight if the rabbit grows more than anticipated, or if something gets trapped underneath. Should this happen the ring will begin to rub, can create a nasty sore and potentially get seriously infected as happened in this case.

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SORE HOCKS

Even though rabbits have well furred feet there are occasions when the fur can come away leaving bare patches of skin on the bottoms of their back feet. Without the furry padding these patches will quickly become sore, the skin broken and possibly infected. It often occurs with larger breeds because of their weight, bunnies that thump and some house rabbits that run on carpet. For the skin to heal the foot needs to be carefully protected and padded. This can be a painful condition and sometimes pain relief as well as anti inflammatory medication and antibiotics are needed. It is often a long term problem.

	Smarty boots
	The latest fashion!
Sore hocks are very painful but there is always also the potential that such a wound will become infected and bone abscesses develop. Padding like Chiropodist's Foam will provide a firm padding with Latex Cohesive Bandages which stick to themselves rather than the fur. Care should be taken applying these because of the risk of affecting blood circulation should they be too tight. Professional treatment is recommended because pain / anti-inflammatory medication and antibiotics may be needed. Regular checking of the wound is needed.

FLEAS

Although fleas are not a common problem for domestic rabbits, bunnies who share the home as a communal living area with dogs and cats are prone to suffer with the fleas that are brought into the home. Consequently flea control programmes being used should include the rabbit as well as other pets since bunny can act as a host and fleas then spread once again to the other animals.

Extreme care is needed with the flea treatments used, since many which are readily available and routinely used on other pets can badly affect bunnies, indeed in some cases have proved fatal.

Advice from a vet is required about safe eradication of fleas from the bunny and indeed the house. The recommended treatment is Advantage a preparation which was licensed for use in rabbits in 2001. It is a drop on treatment, and is easy to use.

It must be remembered that fleas can transmit myxomatosis, so vaccination against this disease is really important if pet cats have access outside - in particular to areas where there are wild rabbits. Cats will return home with rabbit fleas attached to their ears and faces and this could prove fatal to the pet rabbit should one of these fleas be carrying the disease.

The tell-tale signs of flea infestation: 'flea dirt'

Occasionally a tick might attach itself to a rabbit. These are blood sucking creatures which insert a 'probe' into the skin and begin sucking blood. Unless you are used to removing ticks from other pets, it is probably wisest to see a vet to have it removed. It is easy to pull the tick apart, rather than totally removing it. So the part remaining can then cause an infection.


This tick had lodged itself close to the rabbit's eye.

Eyes

There are many conditions which affect eyes. Many are simple eye infections which can be dealt with effectively with a course of antibiotics. Some eye problems are caused by Entropian where the eye lids turn in causing the lashes to rub continually on the eye surface. Sometimes problems with the incisors can mean that the tear ducts become blocked or squashed. Often tear overflow can cause soreness around the eye by creating patches where the fur actually comes away leaving red skin.


This rabbit got some small pieces of wood shaving into its eye which caused this bad reaction. It was easily resolved by flushing the eye and some drops.

The fur is coming away around the eye. Sometimes a light covering of Vaseline can protect the bare area, thus making it less sore. Eye drops may be needed from the vet.

This rabbit has developed a prolapse of one of the glands in the eye causing a large swelling where the third eyelid is sited. The swollen tissue will protrude beyond the eyelids. This will need veterinary attention to ensure that it does not become infected. Possibly surgery may be needed to help resolve the problem.

Warts

Rabbits can develop wart like growths on their ears, which look like little horns. They are dry and crusty in appearance and when knocked or broken can bleed profusely. They are generally viral in origin and although unsightly normally do not cause any problems to the rabbit. They are not painful and do not irritate the bunny. At times they will disappear on their own, and maybe re-grow at another nearby site. Being viral there is a chance that other rabbits kept nearby may develop similar growths.


The wart has got knocked causing a bleed within the tissues. The base is swollen and purple in colour. It is not painful and causes no problems to the rabbit. It began looking very much like the smaller growth above.

You may also see around the anus small red swellings with the lumpy appearance of a bunch of grapes. This is a Papilloma. Generally it will cause no problems - in fact many rabbits have them for some time with their owners being totally unaware of their presence. When pressure is applied they can project through the anus, or as they grow they can become large enough to be external as well as internal. A little Vaseline may be used to help return the lump internally. If the growth becomes large you will need to ensure that it is not damaged on bedding with the area then becoming infected. It is worth talking things through with your vet at a routine appointment as in some cases surgical removal may be appropriate.


This is the 'classic' view of Papilloma at an early stage.

EARS

The inside of a bunny's ears can become dirty with a normal waxy discharge and dirt. The outer part of ears can be carefully cleaned using a cotton bud or soft tissue. Extreme care must be taken because the inside of a rabbit's ears can be very sensitive and it can be extremely painful if crusty discharge or wax is removed or knocked. The rabbit will then jump and damage can occur with the cotton bud.

Work carefully around the outer areas of the ear.

If there appears to be a whitish / yellowy discharge deep within the ear, or an abnormal amount of debris in the ear, there could be an ear infection. Often there is a tell - tale, sometimes 'fishy' smell which is indicative of infection.

This will need urgent medical care from a rabbit-savvy vet since serious complications could be developing.

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This rabbit's bottom was continually washed by its owner who left the fur wet, rather than drying it off properly. Consequently the fur is beginning to smell and rot. It is coming away leaving sore, bare patches.

In extreme cases the back legs can be affected, becoming sore and very uncomfortable. The whole area needs to be cleaned and kept dry with possibly some pain relief being given to the rabbit. In a few days it can look much healthier and will soon grow back.

This bunny had had droppings congealed around the back end for so long became a hardened mass. When it was finally removed the rotten fur dropped away leaving bare patches and sores. The fur along the tail had almost completely disappeared. Within a short time the fur along the tail begins to re-grow. It will not be long before it has returned to its correct length.
	To the right - the tail has completely regrown!

A rabbit in full moult can be quite dramatic, with a short, stubbly coat being revealed when handfuls of the old coat come away.




These are the types of comb that we prefer to use for loose tufts of fur, or long coated bunnies like Cashmeres.
Long Coated Bunnies Like long-haired cats, these rabbits need a lot of regular attention to ensure that their coats are kept in good condition and free from thick knots. They look endearing as babies all soft and fluffy, but often end up in rescues in a real mess because they have not received the attention they need.

This Cashmere Buck came in to us with his coat so matted, wet and smelling that there has been no alternative other than to shave the fur. There is no need for any animal to have to suffer like this due to neglect, whether it be deliberate or due to lack of understanding. A long haired rabbit needs daily attention and will take time to maintain it in the condition it deserves. If you are considering having a long haired rabbit, this article is a must! http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/rwf/articles/long_short.htm

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From top to tail

An experienced rabbit-savvy vet is essential.

After keeping rabbits for many years, there are a number of conditions that, we know from experience, are warning signs of potential ill health.

The Mouth


Clear mucus oozing from the rabbit or found in the cage must not be ignored.


The tell tale signs of mites: found on shoulders and along the spine

Matted fur does not occur only with long- haired rabbits. Short-haired bunnies also can suffer with matted fur or fur balls. One of the prime places for these to develop is around the back end and back legs. Often the only way of seeing the extent of these is by turning bunny over. This bunny had large clumps of fur which were easily removed by gentle combing.