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This page offers advice on
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Learn to THINK LIKE A RABBIT Despite having been kept by humans for many hundreds of years and bred to many different sizes and shapes, the domestic rabbit is still very close to its wild cousin in behaviour. The rabbit is a prey animal, so your pet will experience the same fears and stresses as the wild rabbit seen in the fields. Understanding this will avoid many of the behavioural issues experienced by owners. Rabbits do not climb trees, but live on or under the ground. So, do not be surprised if your pet does not like being lifted and carried. Maybe it is happier being petted on your lap or with you seated on the ground beside it. Rabbits are grabbed by the back and lifted into the air by birds of prey. If you grab and snatch unexpectedly at your bunny it will associate your behaviour with this and be frightened. Rabbits are chased by foxes. If your bunny runs from you, do not chase after it. Be quiet and calm in your approach. Rabbits, being prey animals, are often scared by cats and dogs, as well as loud unexpected noises. Think before you allow other pets near it. This also applies at the vet's surgery... |
Before collecting their pet, new owners must ensure that they have got their rabbit's hutch and food organised. We supply a few day's feed and it is recommended that the rabbit remains on this. Sudden changes in feed can trigger digestive problems which in extreme cases do prove fatal.
Often we are asked what type of hutch we would recommend, since there are so many different types available. We prefer hutches like this:
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Constructed from good quality Tongue and Groove, with strong catches, this style cage will last for many years and is a much better investment than the cheaper plywood hutches often available. A minimum of 4ft x 2ft is a satisfactory size for a small to medium sized rabbit, with larger cages naturally being needed for the bigger breeds. When time comes for the cage to be repainted, make sure that the wood-care product used is animal friendly. We do not recommend plastic cages since they can become very hot in the summer time.
Cages are often divided, with a dark bedroom area for privacy. We suggest that the dividers are removed, thus opening up the cage. (Ensure that all fixings have been removed and that there are no sharp edges which can be dangerous for the rabbit.) The bedroom area can become a 'bolt hole' and the owner can experience handling and behavioural problems if the rabbit ends up struggling and being dragged from this space.
If a two storey hutch has been purchased we recommend, until the rabbit is well bonded and feeling comfortable in coming to be petted and picked up, that one floor is closed off. This will again prevent the rabbit from running away to hide or escape contact. When the bonding process is complete the cage can be opened up to allow full access.
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 Many cages are available now with 2 tiers, accessed by a ladder! |
Often prospective rabbit owners anticipate keeping their rabbit on the patio near the house. We recommend that you go into your garden between 11am and 3pm to watch for where the sunny and shaded areas are. Often the patio is south facing and consequently this area will become unbearably hot and your rabbit may die from heat stroke in the summer. Find a draught - free and shaded area as this is far more suitable. We have found that Perspex shutters can be easily made and are helpful to keep out the rain. Ensure also that the site is safe from foxes.
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Perspex shutters successfully keep out the rain and wind |
Drilled, they drop onto a nail. |
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When covering the front of a cage ensure that there cannot be a build up of heat inside the hutch should the weather change, as the rabbit may suffer from heat stroke. A flow of air is essential. |
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Also consider where the run on the lawn is going to be sited and whether there is access to shade should the bunny be left alone for several hours. Rabbits can tolerate cold, but heat can be a killer. Draughts can cause sore and runny eyes.
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Sore eyes caused by sitting in a draught. |
Some runs have meshed bottoms to prevent digging - we are concerned about these because of the chances of nails being ripped out.
Invest in a good quality pet carrier - we prefer the ones with semi solid sides, to prevent accidents with feet getting trapped and bones broken. Also get a towel to go over the carrier since darkness can make travelling less stressful.
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A giant sized carrier for a giant sized bunny! |
Standard sized carriers |
Wooden travel box |
The first few days...
Before anyone leaves with a rabbit, we always talk about caring for the new family member. A care sheet is given and we ensure they have our telephone number in case there are problems, as we are always happy to help - with the serious as well as the trivial. If we are not available to take the calls, we will return them if contact details are left.
We prefer rabbits to leave us during the morning so they will have several hours of daylight to settle into their new home.
Houserabbits
Having Bunny living with you in the house is become a more and more popular option. They can easily be litter trained and can be delightful companions. However bunny instincts remain, even though they are in the home. So one of the first essential jobs is to bunny proof the home. Starting with all electric wires...
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Sexing young rabbits correctly can be difficult, with even long term breeders confessing to the one that they got wrong. Regularly bunnies are wrongly sexed when purchased from a pet shop and this accounts for many of the unwanted / unexpected litters.
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Female or doe |
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Male or buck |
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Castrated buck:
left
Recently spayed doe: right |
Having a pair of rabbits living together is often very successful and ideal for many bunnies. However there are times when they can fight and this can occur as youngsters become sexually mature. Fighting rabbits do need to be separated as they can cause serious damage to each other when one (or both) becomes territorial or aggressive. There have been many occasions when a visit to the vet by one rabbit, with the partner remaining at home, has been sufficient to upset the relationship and fighting occurs. Sometimes completely separate cages are needed; sometimes a mesh divider will suffice. These wounds were caused by fighting.
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Wounds can become infected and ulcerated if not treated properly. These two pictures (left) taken just a week apart show how quickly, under correct circumstances, a wound will heal. Below: a month later it is almost completely healed! |
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Handling
We suggest that new owners handle their rabbits several times a day rather than leaving them alone for the first few days. We feel it helps the rabbit become more familiar with the owner while also developing confidence in handling, for both parties.
Before owners carry their rabbits around we recommend that they sit with the rabbit on their lap while handling them. A carpet sample is useful, especially when children are handling the rabbit, as is a special 'bunny jumper', such as a fleece. Many children do become very wary of their pets should they get scratched by the rabbit's nails.
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The Bunny Fleece and carpet sample makes for safer handling until we know each other properly. |
We always show people safe handling techniques to reduce the risk of the rabbit struggling, jumping or falling. Should the bunny have a fall always check the mouth in case of injuries to the teeth.
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Scooping the bunny towards you, helps it feel secure. |
Support the body weight at all times. | Hold bunny close to you, to keep it safe and stop it from wriggling. | Returning the bunny backwards into the cage will stop it jumping, and scrabbling. |
When bunny is in the run on the lawn we suggest that, from time to time, the owners pick up and stroke their pet, before returning it to the pen. Some rabbits quickly associate being picked up with just being put back in their cage and can take an active dislike to this.
Some rabbits cope well when being held upside down, baby style. There is currently debate regarding whether the rabbits are in fact in a stressed or fearful condition if held like this. But a bunny who is confident with you and knows he is being safely held, we feel, is generally quite secure and feels safe. Some rabbits will quite readily go into this tranced state and it can be a useful technique if the bunny is unwell or needs to be checked.
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There are times when rabbits can become very territorial and aggressive. Does in particular do become moody and start making nests, despite not being pregnant. This could be a time to speak with your vet about neutering. Do speak with us if you need someone to talk things through.
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Who's a clever girl? |
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Feeding
We provide details of the feeding regime that we have been following, the quantity of food given, biscuit treats and greens/vegetables preferred.
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We always use a standard measure to be certain the correct ration is fed. |
We ensure that the rabbits always have food and water available, although we do not stick to a definite feeding time. We find this is helpful to the rabbits especially should a friend be caring for the bunny at holiday times and exact times then may not be adhered to.
Make sure that the rabbit has access to water at all times, and is drinking. We prefer bottles to bowls as these can be tipped over, or the water become contaminated.
Never pull grass for the rabbit or feed grass clippings - it is safe for the rabbit to nibble their own. Grass is an excellent feed for rabbits, being the natural diet. If dandelions or other treats are collected from the hedgerow or fields remember that they must be washed before feeding because of chemical sprays and the local dog population.
Access to the garden may need to be reviewed in case there are poisonous plants, like ivy, yew and laburnum. A useful book is:
Virginia Richardson's 'Rabbit Nutrition' Coney Publications ISBN1-898015 - 03-1
We recommend barley (not wheat) straw as a bedding, and a good quality hay, for example Haydown which is available from Scats.
If there is going to be an alteration to the diet or new items fed, it is best to introduce these in small quantities over a few days, with one new foodstuff at a time being given, to save the chances of digestive problems.
We do not recommend the colourful and sticky treats that are widely available from stores nowadays. These are not a natural foodstuff for rabbits, and rabbits are better with small pieces of branch from fruit trees, in particular apple or hazel. In the wild, grass is the main rabbit food and it is best to feed as closely to the natural diet as possible.
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Strawberry |
Milk Thistle | Apple | |||
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Clover |
Dandelion |
Plantain |
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Shepherd's Purse |
Sow Thistle |
Dead Nettle |
We do not feel that mineral blocks or salt licks are necessary for rabbits, despite these being widely available. A proper well balanced diet will provide the rabbit with all the nutrition it needs.
Medical Care:
An experienced rabbit-savvy vet is essential.
Find one before you need one. Not all vets are experienced with rabbits.
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MEDICAL EMERGENCY
Do not wait - get to the vet... |
See also From Top To Tail
Be aware of temperature changes:
If you are taking an outdoor bunny into the house for a play session, be sensitive to the temperature changes that can be experienced on return to the hutch, particularly during winter when it is cold outside but you have the central heating on indoors. These temperature changes can be quite extreme and can cause the rabbit to get chilled and become ill.
Cleanliness is next to Godliness!
Wash your hands before and after handling the bunny - it is essential to develop good hygiene habits, with children in particular.
Keep the rabbit cage clean to avoid flies and maggots.
Litter training a rabbit is a successful way to keep cages clean. Rabbits usually select one corner for their wet area. Collect these wet shavings and put them into a litter tray placed in the same area. The rabbit will begin to associate the smell of its toilet corner with the tray and use it. It can take several weeks and the rabbit may move its toilet space from one corner to another, in which case you alter the tray's position. Most bunnies will take quite readily to using a tray.
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Keep putting the wet and dirty shavings from the cage floor into the litter tray. |
Most bunnies take to using a litter tray very quickly. |
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Would you like to live in these conditions? If not, why should a rabbit? |
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We recommend cleaning cages daily, not monthly. |
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Feed fresh vegetables daily - if they are not eaten, take the old ones out. |
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Maintenance recommended... |
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Scent Glands
Rabbits have scent glands near the anus which can sometimes need cleaning out. We recommend securely holding the bunny upside down and using warm water and cotton wool or pads to clean this area. The glands can smell quite pungent and in the summer can be an attraction for flies.
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Before: The sticky discharge needs cleaning. |
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After: No discharge and no smell |
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Companionship
Rabbits are by nature social animals. Some people successfully keep paired or bonded groups, with bunnies being neutered to prevent unwanted litters. Many rabbits are kept as single pets, which is fine so long as they do not become isolated prisoners in a box at the bottom of the garden or in the garage. Some bunnies will not take to another rabbit companion, so their human companion is increasingly important to them.
While bonding rabbits it is important to supervise them closely as not all bunnies will accept a friend and even established relationships can break up. Should there be any problems between the two, it is wisest to err on the side of caution and spilt them as fights can cause terrible wounds.
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There is a major blood vessel running along the ear. This rabbit was lucky that the tear did not interfere with this... |
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Keeping rabbits in bonded pairs is now becoming more common. Since bunnies are social animals it can work very well and be wonderful for the animals and owners alike. Bonding rabbits will take time and patience and does not always work. It is essential that advice is taken regarding neutering of one, or both, the animals before there is the risk of unplanned pregnancies. Many pairs of baby rabbits often do not end up being the sexes anticipated, and it is worth having them checked for a second time as they reach maturity around 4-5 months.
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This group of 4 generations was recently brought in to us at the Rescue. They had all been caged together, along with two mature bucks. They look very sweet, but this shows how unplanned breeding can start to get out of hand. Undoubtedly the mature does are already pregnant again and there must have been many casualties amongst the babies before we received them. These rabbits are long haired and should really be kept by a specialist owner, rather than being allowed to run un-groomed and in a mixed sex cage as these were.
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We ensure that all our rabbits have toys to play with. Some enjoy throwing things around or chewing while others actively seek the companionship of a teddy bear!
Harry Hare has a teddy bear and pines if it is taken from him. We daren't replace it with another since this is not accepted and although it needs a wash this would not be approved of either!
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Two's company... |
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Toys prevent boredom! |
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We are wary of many dangling toys since we have had a number of rabbits brought to us which have pulled their teeth out of alignment. Toys which we prefer to use are these:
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Make these yourself from hay and a toilet roll tube! Cheap and provide hours of fun! |
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Most importantly...
Enjoy your bunny's time with you. The more time you are prepared to share with your pet, the closer the bond will become.
Should things not work out and you are unable to keep your pet, consider carefully how you re-home it. Too many rabbits are being regarded as disposable items, which leads to them being abandoned and dumped. Respect the animal, as it is a precious life for which you are responsible.
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